Coeur D’Alene is listed in the book “1000 places to see before you die, so I decided to make a point of stopping and checking it out. It wasn’t worth it. Coeur D’Alene is a nice town on a great lake, and that’s all. I could have died without seeing this place and still died a happy man.  I walked around, had an overpriced hotdog and checked out the boardwalk. Things I could have lived without.

However, the road around the lake, highway 97, was another story! I get over how amazing the roads have been over the past few days.  Highway 97 hugged the shore of Coeur D’Alene Lake, passed over some mountains and much to my excitement had few barriers preventing someone from flying right off some of those hair pin turns.

An excellent couple of days of riding, life is good.

Squamish, British Columbia to Twisp Washington

Waking up early to cool air and grey skies in Squamish BC, I decided to get an early start and head south. Breaking camp was easy and I quickly had the bike packed and ready, I just really needed a shower, which the campground provided.

Returning from the shower I hear a voice calling me “Would you like a coffee?” It was my new neighbour across from my tent at the campground. Being the friendly guy that I am and not one to refuse a free coffee I took him up on his offer.  My new neighbour, Trevor, was as tall as he was round, had bright red hair and a black cat named Coal. The coffee was good and the conversation soon turned to hockey. I told him about my prize possession, a personalized autographed jersey from Vladislov Tretiak, so much for my early start. After 90 minutes of talking hockey I managed to get on the bike and head for the USA. Trevor as a local guy and gave me great directions to the quickest crossing. The quickest crossing turned out to take one hour and fifteen minutes.

Once across into the US I start down Interstate #5 and decided to head for highway 20 towards Coeur D’Alene in Idaho (one of the 1000 Places I should see before I die). Highway 20 was an amazing ride! It had twists and turns, tunnels and bridges, over the mountains, through the valleys, past rivers and lakes and best of all, not a cop in sight. My heart was racing from the excitement of this road! The sun was shining, there was no rain and also no traffic, most of the time I had the road to myself, all 226 kilometers (141 miles) of it. I did not want it to end, but sadly all good things must, and I finished with Ice Cream and motorcycle conversation in a town called Windthrop Washington. Windthrop is set up like a western saloon style town and I was not sure if I should park my bike or tie it to a post like a trusty old steed.  The only thing slowing me down was a fake police car with two dummies inside.This is a road my Harley friend David would have loved, and if he as here, I would have rode it faster.

I am over budget so I continued to Twisp and found a cheap Motel and even cheaper wine (The Glenlivet is out of my price range for a while). I would have camped tonight but I lost my pillow and when you have a neck like mine, pillows are important. There is an outdoor store in Twisp, maybe they have inflatable pillows.

Tonight will be the last night that I spend in Canada for a long time. I will leave in the morning from Squamish BC and continue  south, until I reach Ushuaia, Argentina. My plan is to zip zag through the western United States until I reach Mexico. I don’t have a defined route, I use www.motorcycleroads.com and the book “1000 Places to see before you Die” as my guides (and no I am not dying). As long as I am south of where I was the night before, I will eventually reach Ushuaia, Argentina.

I spent the last couple of days in Squamish British Columbia and did very little riding. I took the time to do some hiking around Shannon Falls, explored the town on foot, relaxed with a book around my campsite and ran a few last minute errands in Vancouver. I did some riding and the roads here, highway 99 is lots of fun, the Cassiar was a great road, just watch out for the bears!

I believe that I have experienced a miracle, let me share with you my story.

I was heading along the Alaskan Highway back towards Whitehorse, enjoying the roller coaster style road created by the frost heaves. Suddenly a pot hole the size of small car appeared in the road before me. I had no time to move out of the way and hit the pothole at full speed, hitting the pot hole with such force that it was only through the grace of God that I was able to keep the bike upright. I pulled over to the side of the highway to inspect the motorcycle. It was not leaking fluid, the tires were not flat, there was no visible damage, however, it now sounded like a Harley. I obviously damaged the exhaust, but other than minor exhaust damage the bike was still running perfectly. This friends, is not the miracle!

Once I got near a telephone I called Carter Motorsports in Vancouver and made a service appointment for Friday, I was then transferred to parts to see about tires. I needed new tires anyway; it was time for an oil change and now the exhaust. I spoke to a very helpful guy in parts and was able to secure me the tires I wanted and I asked him to also speak to Service to confirm that I would be changing tires on Friday as well.

Now, for us in North America I think we would all agree “service” is either lacking or non-existent in most businesses. It does not seem to matter if your drive a Honda, a Harley, a BMW, a Ford or Lexus. It does not seem to matter if you are staying in an expensive hotel or at the Super 8, fine dining or McDonalds, service in North America and in particular Canada leaves much to be desired.
I arrived at Carter Motorsports and was greeted by Sarah in service, who I must say, is very easy on the eyes. I introduced myself, explained that I had a 9am appointment and waited while she checked her computer. This is when the miracle occurred! The Parts department had spoken to the Service department! Service was aware of my issues, the tires were ready, the exhaust issue was documented and they were ready for me! Sarah began asking informed; intelligent questions about my issues so that she could get all the details that the technicians would require. Sarah had patience; I was getting service, being treated like a customer. Another service advisor, Miles, came by and introduced himself, just for the sake of being friendly. Wow, how often does that happen?
I was asked to come back in two hours while they worked on my bike. I explained to Sarah and Miles about my journey and asked for the bike to be given a full inspection. Two hours later I returned to the service department to find that the tires were already on, I needed new rear brakes and the parts were in stock but the gaskets needed for my exhaust were not in stock. Miles and Sarah were both working super hard to source these gaskets and we agreed that I would come back in the morning. Miles assured me they would find a solution.

Another miracle! When I returned in the morning not only was my motorcycle ready, in perfect running order, but there was Miles, washing my motorcycle. By the time Miles was done it looked as if it has been professionally detailed, I could have served a meal off the wheels, licked the engine without fear of getting sick. It felt great to be treated like a real customer and to have all of my issues resolved. I cannot say enough positive things about my experience at Carter Motorsports. I have decided to relax in Squamish BC for a couple of days while I plan my route through US towards Mexico.

Quotes about Bears

Tomorrow will make one month that I have been travelling solo and I often get asked “Do you get lonely?”.  Although I do miss my friends and family and think of them often I can honestly answer that “No, I don’t get lonely”.

I woke up in Beaver Creek to beautiful sunshine and clear skies ready to hit the road. For reasons not important here, I decided to head south instead of north to Dawson City as I had been thinking of doing. I don’t like riding the same road twice but the Alaskan highway southbound offered as much beauty as it did northbound.

Once I got a little south of Haines Junction I started to get a feeling that “something is not right”. The bike was running well; mirror check told me that my bags were tied on ok. Can’t shake this feeling. I locked the throttle so I could check all of my pockets, camera, wallet, passport – CHECK. Ok important stuff is with me, what the hell is this feeling.

Not sure why, but I reach directly behind me. I can’t feel my extra gas can that I have been carrying since Prudhoe Bay. I know I tied it on really well back in Beaver Creek. Oh oh, that means I have straps flapping around that could get caught in my chain. I quickly pulled over. Inspected the bike and realized that the gas can had been stolen. My straps were still there, but not tied in the way I would have done it, they are tied on as if a moron had done it. A cluster of loose straps, not the way an anal accountant like me would have tied them on.

My gas can has been stolen! But from where? Think back, the bike was only out of my sight twice. The first time was at Burwash Landing when I stopped at the Kluane Museum of Natural History to see if it was worth a visit, it was not. I was away from my bike for 5 minutes. Second time, I stopped for lunch at Haines Junction, right across from the RCMP station.

The gas can cost $7.49, the straps holding them on cost $10 each, there were binoculars, a laptop and other valuable things on my bike yet some moron took the time to steal the empty gas can and tie the straps back on. What a risk he took! I just came back from Alaska where I purchased Bear repellant spray and would have used it on a thief without a second thought and laughed while he cried like a little girl from the pain.

 The real sad part is that I was going to give this gas can away as I no longer needed it. I was going to give it to the next biker I saw going north.  It bothers me that this happened in Canada, a place with ample social programs and where nobody goes without the things they need. I have travelled extensively and this was the first time that I have been stolen from. I once left the key in my motorcycle for two days in Vietnam while I went on a tour, the bike was never touched. In Cambodia while taking a tour of a floating village I left my bike unattended with over $2,000 cash in a backpack tied on the bike, it was never touched. While in Iran, the “axis of evil” I never gave my safety a second thought.

Oh well, what goes around comes around and one day the thief will get his just rewards. As for me, the adventure continues. I am now relaxing at the Yukon Motel in Teslin Yukon, where I was greeted by a very pleasant and helpful Filipina lady who listened to my woes with a sympathetic ear.  She brought me ice for my drink, told me she was married and wished me goodnight.